Mother, Militant, Empath, Hard-Ass
THEY ARE TALL and crooked things, hot to the touch, packed into a brown paper bag darkened with oil, sparkling as their crystals of sugar catch and refract the late-day light. Chef Claudette Zepeda passes a bill to the vendor at her driver-side window and fishes out a churro, releasing a tiny, ambrosial mushroom cloud of powdered canela.
I'm a Border Kid. This Is How I Cook.
My parents are from Tijuana, right near the border, but I was born in San Diego. It was a fight between them. My dad wanted me to be born a Mexican citizen and my mom wanted me to be an American citizen, to have all those rights and privileges.